Yemen

Life in Yemen

Dr.Thomas Antony

It was lunch time, the sun at its peak, and I was just about to enter our residential building. Just then I saw a shining Land Cruiser parked opposite to the gate, on an otherwise empty road, and a few westerners walking around, taking photos. I wondered if they were trying to locate the sea through some gap amid the buildings, when one gentleman wished me in Arabic. I returned the greeting and gestured to them how they could go to the beach. "Oh, you speak English!” He seemed surprised as he walked towards me. The others were three middle aged plump ladies in T-shirts and pants chatting with a local person.

He said he was Irish, now retired from a bank. The ladies with him were British. They all have come to Yemen on a short visit. This was a trip prompted by nostalgia, as all of them had spent their childhood here, in the late fifties or early sixties. They were the children of those who built the refinery in Aden or the first employees there.

By the beach he could find the old house where his tender memories lived. Occupied by natives, there was a tall compound wall around it now. It had been just a fence earlier. He was upset he was not allowed even a walk around the house by its present resident. That freedom cannot be allowed now; it is considered an intrusion into their privacy. Life has changed much and the old sparkle is gone.

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The British came here in 1839, made Aden their military base and built the refinery. They had to leave in 1967 when Peoples Democratic Republic of Yemen (South Yemen) was formed. This place built connections with other socialist countries. Some migrated to UK, some have dual citizenship.

North and South Yemen were separate countries, but they united in 1990. The communist government gave way to presidential rule. And a civil war in 1994 sent many foreigners back to their homeland.

The colours of western civilization left by the British occupation and the socialist regime in South Yemen were drowned by the inflow of orthodox culture from the North, after unity. All women began wearing black cloak that covered them head to foot. It is called 'abaya'. Some add a veil over the face. More and more young men accepted orthodox lifestyle, growing beards and covering the head, while most of their parents still sport clean shaven faces, with a hair combed neat.

One sees people from many countries in this place. Some have come for work, while others have integrated well into the society. Many Yemenis have studied abroad and could pick their life partners from there. Yemenis have taken wives from Russia, Ukraine, Czech, Romania and such places. They have a people from different ethnic communities here.

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History of this place dates back 3000 years. I read an article where it says this place is mentioned in the Book of Ezekiel. This is part of the Arabian peninsula which was known as Arabia Felix or 'Happy Arabia'. It was here Queen Sheba reigned. (Seba Kingdom; no idea if the Sebeans were the descendents of Seba, son of Cush (Genesis 10:7) It was from here she went to meet King Solomon, of Israel.

Because of its strategic position Aden has gone through a turbulent past. History also records migration of Yemenis to other countries. Mecca, Syria, Iraq, The Emirates, Spain, Romania, America, Libya, India are some of them. Once we met a malayalee wife of a Yemeni. And I know a malayalee who has married a Yemeni woman.

In spite of its rich culture and traditions, Yemen remains a poor cousin of the Arab world. The very rich here have mansions and most modern cars. And there are the very poor who find life a struggle. A strong middle class, so important for the economic development of any country (so I am told) is missing. For advanced medical treatment one has to go abroad, very often India or Jordan. There are government free hospitals, but medical treatment on the private side, whatever available, is costly.

However, the average Yemeni manages to remain happy. It is very rare to see them quarrel or fight. It is difficult to find rudeness or arrogance in them. If you hear shouts or loud conversation, be assured it is a crowd dispersing after a football match. Don’t let a row of cars with head-lights on and blaring horns panic you; it is a wedding motorcade. Armed with a politeness to disarm you, their pleasant high-spirited nature is transparent. There is an air of tranquility around. Before you know it, you begin to feel at ease with them. And then you realize they are the embodiment of patience. Once, waiting at Aden airport for the Mumbai flight, I was upset by its undue delay by over three hours. More so because of the ‘oh-what's-the-hurry’ attitude around. A hospital employee, who too was booked in the same flight, reassured me happily, "Smile, doctor! You are in Yemen."